The story below is from our July/August 2015 issue. For the DIGITALLY ENHANCED VERSION, download our FREE iOS app or view our digital edition for FREE today!
The egg-laden Stevo and the spicy Bahn Mi make up part of the offensive line for a menu that spreads nicely into a deft backfield of sandwiches, pizzas and surprisingly delightful salads.
John Park
One thing Roanoke is blessed with is a long, seasonable summer. The days never get too blisteringly hot and the evenings are perfect for short sleeves or even a light jacket, and this iterance of the perfect valley summer calls for one thing: patio dining. Over the past few years, a number of restaurants have added patio dining to their menu, so to speak, but on the whole, large decks or patios aren’t as commonplace as one might expect in such an ideal town. Two years ago, however, Beamer’s 25 came to the rescue and, if it isn’t already, should be your go-to spot for a cold beer and bite to eat over the coming months.
As the restaurant’s name would suggest, Beamer’s 25 is the eponymous brainchild of Frank Beamer, Virginia Tech’s football team head coach. From the sleek dark wood, exposed Edison light bulbs, and retro black-and-white Virginia Tech football photos (several of Beamer as a Tech player), paneling the walls to the large concrete patio with a fire pit, it’s easy to see on the surface why Beamer’s 25 is as successful as the Tech football team: It’s a modern take on a gastropub with metropolitan touches that no other restaurant in Roanoke boasts.
As for the food, almost every item on the menu scores an easy touchdown. A few years ago when I named The Stevo burger one of the best in Roanoke, the idea of an egg on a burger was a novelty. Now, although other restaurants copy the concept, The Stevo still stands out as a top-notch gastropub burger, from the rich brioche bun to the perfectly runny egg yolk to the cook’s deft touch with seasoning the beef patty. If you’re in the mood for a burger, but want something a little different, Beamer’s 25 is the place. My personal favorite is the Bahn Mi Burger, a pork-centric sandwich that features pickled carrots, cucumber, and ginger with a spicy chili aioli. It’s a little lighter and fresher than The Stevo and perfect for a late-summer evening.
Quite a few solid sandwich picks grace the menu as well. On the fish side, the Baltimore features a salty-seasoned lump meat crab cake (heavy on the crab, light on the filler) with a light slaw, tangy quick cucumber pickles and a house-made tartar sauce. From the land, reach for the Blackened Meatloaf sandwich, a Cajun take on the familiar leftovers standby that proves a meatloaf sandwich need not be an afterthought. Or you can attempt to defeat the restaurant’s infamous Ultimate BLTC – a BLT (pepperjack cheese being the “C”) that packs in a whopping half pound of bacon per sandwich. It’s savory, it’s salty, it’s smoky and it’s absolutely a must-order for a bacon fanatic.
With sides range from thick-cut French fries to tater tots to onion rings or a side salad, so there’s a bit of something for everyone. My money lies with the tater tots – you can’t go wrong with crunchy, fried potatoes. Though, if you’re an onion aficionado, the rings are a massive showstopper. I found them to be a bit too bready, but they’ll definitely hit the spot if you’re jonesing for an onion ring. For an appetizer to split with the table, ask for the Chili Cheese Fries and extra forks – the fries are loaded with meat-only chili and cheddar cheese and pair perfectly with any of the burgers.
If you’re in the mood for something lighter, order one of the large salads and a pizza to split. Salads at Beamer’s 25 follow the burgers’ lead: They are hands-down the largest and most laden salads I’ve eaten in the area. The Spicy Thai Chopped Salad is my favorite with its giant bowl of romaine, bib, and other leaf lettuces mixed with carrots, red bell peppers, cucumbers, and edamame. The sauce is light and spicy and tangy, reminiscent of a creamy pad thai, and I can’t get enough of the edamame (and am planning on throwing some in every salad I make now).
Add some carbs to your meal with one of the signature pizzas like the Classic Pepperoni with its fist-sized spicy pepperoni, sweet tomato sauce, and perfectly baked thin crust. Or check out the vegetarian options with the Wild Mushroom, featuring a decent mix of chanterelles, lobster, and cap mushrooms with a vibrant pesto and bright goat cheese.
From 25 beers on draught to quintessential gastropub fare, Beamer’s 25 is one of the best restaurants in town to frequent during summer months. The patio provides ample seating for people watching on Salem Avenue, catching the sunset or enjoying the evening breeze. No longer a newcomer to the block, the restaurant proves that Frank Beamer has what it takes to not just win football games but also bring a fresh eye to the Roanoke dining scene.
Beamer’s 25
357 Salem Ave SW, Roanoke.
540-904-6233; beamers25.com/