The story below is from our December/November 2015 issue. For the DIGITALLY ENHANCED VERSION, download our FREE iOS app or view our digital edition for FREE today!
If you miss the likes of The Library, Hunan, Charcoal Steak House and others, guess what—there is a dining room or three around here to satisfy your yearning.
The Year 1986: The US-USSR Arms Talks between Reagan and Gorbachev lead to the defrosting of the Cold War, IBM unveils the first laptop computer (the PC Convertible), and the human genome project is launched. One gallon of gasoline cost a measly 89 cents, and bacon averaged out around $1.75 per pound. While the iron curtain has since fallen and mobile phones have largely replaced even our use of laptops, some things in Roanoke haven’t changed—like our readers’ excellent choice of our annual dining awards. Since 1986—yes, this year is the 30th anniversary of the awards—we’ve been asking locals who they think stacks up as the best chef and restaurant in the valley. Some choices both then and now might surprise you, but there are a few similar designations, even with three intervening decades. Who’s in and who’s out? It almost seems like going (or staying) retro is the new hot trend.
An App for That
Do people still go out just for appetizers and drinks? In 1986, they definitely did, and the place to go was Chi Chi’s Restaurante, the Mexican chain restaurant located near Valley View Mall. If chips and dip with margaritas isn’t your thing, or even if it is, options abound for pre-dinner snacks. River & Rail (Platinum) was voted “Best Appetizers/Small Plates,” for good reason—its silky smooth chicken liver mousse is the best in the region and you can’t go wrong with Chef Deal’s rich steak tartare. If you’re looking to class it up a little, on a warm summer night, head over to Billy’s (Platinum—Best Downtown Roanoke Restaurant) for some grilled oysters or lamb chop lollipops. Its outside patio area is the perfect spot for a few appetizers and some drinks, and it’s even nicer with their large fire pit when the weather cools off. For less fancy options, AllSports Café (Platinum—Best Buffalo Wings), one of my go-to spots for catching a game, does indeed offer the best wings in the area, and, in the spirit of Chi Chi’s, Alejandro’s downtown location (Gold—Best Mexican) never fails with their slightly spicy queso and always-fresh salsa bar—it’s almost, but not quite, like a little slice of Chi Chi’s.
Putting on the Ritz
In 1986, our readers hands-down chose The Library as having the best wine list and service, as well as being the “best place to dine with a lover” (talk about some dated phrasing!). Since The Library’s close in 2012, a few restaurants have risen to the occasion to constantly top our list as the best picks for a ritzy night on the town. It’s no surprise that Carlos Brazilian Cuisine (Platinum) once again breaks the charts for an anniversary or celebratory meal. From its top-of-the-world ambiance in south Roanoke county to chef Amaral’s fine dining take on Latin favorites like seafood rich paella or comforting feijoada, it’s a classic Roanoke fine dining experience.
It’s obvious that our readers are up to snuff when it comes to the best wine in town too—if you’re looking for an interesting glass of sparkling malbec or a unique biodynamic wine, Local Roots (Platinum) and Rockfish (Gold) will rarely let you down. Topping in with a platinum award, Local Roots has also made a name for itself with the Best Staff in Town. For any regulars or even brand new guests, it’s true—the service at Local Roots is friendly and informative, and the staff genuinely welcomes you with open arms to join the restaurant’s ever-growing Grandin family.
Global Favorites
Italian food is unofficially one of the most American cuisines outside of grilling a burger or hotdog on a hot summer day. Who doesn’t have fond memories of their mother’s spaghetti nights—or if not home cooked, a special meal in a leather-booth-lined, candlelit Italian restaurant? Luigi’s, on Brambleton, sets the bar high when it comes to an affordable yet special Italian experience. Rated the Best Italian Restaurant in 1986 and again in 2015 (with many years as champion between), I know that I, along with most Roanokers, have enjoyed many a fantastic meal in the classic Italian restaurant. From veal picatta to crab stuffed flounder, you can’t go wrong with any order at Luigi’s. Just save room for their infamous cannoli—you won’t want to split it!
Itching for Chinese food? While Hunan Chinese Restaurant topped the charts in our first dining awards, Café Asia 2 (Platinum) with its newer and more pan-Asian experience bags the top award in this year’s competition. A close runner-up, Szechuan in Roanoke (Gold), offers more standard Chinese and Chinese-American fare—and has even held top honors for Best Chinese from 1991-2014, a record that can hardly be argued with.
One of our newer categories that could have never been dreamed of in 1986—Best Food Truck—also features an array of global eats from Bruno’s GastroTruck (Gold) with its Peruvian-American dishes like spicy chicken curry or its infamous angry tots, and The Noke Truck (Silver) with its incredibly simple and satisfying street-style tacos. Our top winner, The Rock and Roll Diner (Platinum), is decidedly more American, but with some nods to our southern neighbors with its barbeque chicken or ribeye steak tacos.
All-American
Nothing says “American” like a good steak, baked potato and some creamed spinach. It’s classic and it’s classy. Which is why it’s no surprise for those who remember Charcoal Steak House with its dark interior, rounded booths, and perfectly cooked steaks, that the Williamson Road institution garnered “Best Steak” in 1986. While Charcoal is no longer with us, others in the valley have justly earned top honors for many years running now. Coming in at Platinum, once again, Frankie Rowland’s seems to be the place to get your traditional steakhouse experience. While you can’t go wrong with the reigning downtown favorite, I’m always a fan of championing the underdog and recommend that you try Table 50 (Silver) the next time you’re jonesing for a filet mignon or New York Strip. The restaurant almost always features a steak special, and their slightly non-traditional accompaniments like crayfish sauce or gruyere potato cakes take the meal in a more contemporary American direction that’s hard to beat.
Mix It Up
The cocktail scene in Roanoke these days is dominated by Hunter Johnson’s deep and nuanced program at Lucky in downtown Roanoke. Rated Platinum for Most Creative Cocktails and Best Bar this year, hardly any other bar in town can compete with Lucky’s creative firepower. Johnson, however, is inspired in his creations by the cocktail powerhouse of yore—Fiji Island’s tiki drinks. Fiji Island won Best Mixed Drink in an era in which tiki drinks were on the out (the Cosmopolitan, a decidedly un-tiki drink, was created in 1986), but Fiji Island once did and still does excel at bringing the magic back to an evening cocktail. A Mai Thai at Fiji is an all-island experience, and one that you can enjoy here in the middle of the mountains.
At Lucky, Johnson and his talented team of bartenders and mixologists, serve up cocktail history in a glass—with a twist, of course. At the long, shiny black bar or in one of the restaurant’s cozy booths you can enjoy a nod to Fiji Island’s heyday with a Banana Mango Daiquiri (no super sweet mix in sight) or a Spice Rum Fizz—drinks that take you straight to the beach at first sip. The originals will always be classics, but Lucky’s contemporary take on these throwback drinks offers a refinement that speaks to 21st century tastes.
Continuing Classics
So much has changed, but some restaurants have stood the test of time. Looking for a great sandwich? Look no further than Macado’s, winner of Best Sandwich in 1986. Pulling in a Silver in this year’s awards, Macado’s is a Roanoke-New River Valley institution with its fold-out menu filled with unique sandwich creations and an entire mini-section devoted to Reubens. The Roanoker Restaurant was voted “Best Place to Dine with Your Mother” back in the first awards issue, and still rakes in the Platinum votes from “Best Biscuits,” to “Best Family-Friendly Restaurant,” to “Best Picnic or Tailgate Food.” With a menu that’s hardly changed since opening in 1941, The Roanoker is a best bet for traditional Virginia food with a family-friendly flair. It’s a pass-the-biscuits kind of place, and one that rightfully holds the imagination of Roanokers for over 70 years.
A look back at three decades of dining awards reveals quite a few trends and shows how Roanoke has grown as a food town. No longer do we rely on Shoney’s for breakfast (voted tops in 1986)—instead we grab a bagel and schmear from Roanoke Bagel Company (Platinum) or an eggs benedict at The River and Rail (Gold). And we have better “bargain restaurants” than K&W Cafeteria (1986 winner) as evidenced by the winners of our Best Food Truck category or the Best Hotdogs like Roanoke Weiner Stand (Platinum) or Texas Tavern (Gold). Some classics endure through time, while other popular restaurants have closed due to retirement or the economy. But, if nothing else, our readers establish year after year where to source the best and most interesting cuisine in the Roanoke and New River Valley area one glass of wine or taco at a time.