The story below is a preview from our May/June 2018 issue. For more, Subscribe today or view our FREE digital edition.
Photo by John Park
Experiencing the foods of the world can be timely and expensive. Fortunately for Roanokers, there’s Williamson Road.
On September 1, 1994, Estela Gonzalez-Perez and her husband, Manuel Hidalgo-Rodrigues left Cuba in a 19-foot boat. They, along with 19 others, set out across the Straits of Florida; sad to leave their homeland, but yearning for a place where hope lives.
This is the beginning of Gonzalez-Perez and Hidalgo-Rodrigues’ American dream story. Of course, it wasn’t as simple as hopping in a boat and jetting to a new land. There were a series of mishaps (engine failure and losing their compass), months of waiting and shuffling through immigration. Gonzalez-Perez says when they first came to Roanoke in 1995, the city wasn’t as pretty as it is now. Even then, however, she could see potential for owning a business.
The couple went to work for Home Shopping Network and settled in Salem. For 10 years, they worked contentedly for HSN, until it’s local hub shut down. They found work at another company but were laid off after a year. This was when Hidalgo-Rodrigues decided there must be a better way. He bought an old catering truck and fixed it up. This was the beginning of Cuban Island.
For four years, the couple sold their Cuban Island fare at Happy’s Flea Market. But in 2010, the couple landed an opportunity to lease a brick and mortar space on Williamson Road. They sold the food truck and opened Cuban Island Restaurant. Gonzalez-Perez says every food item—from dipping sauce to decorated cake—is inspired by her grandmother. “My grandmother taught me everything I know,” she says. “Everything comes from her.”
Cuban Island’s food is classic, unfussy and generous. Every meal fills the plate on which it is served. Their appetizers—often sold by single item—are even generously sized. My family’s favorites include the Stuffed Potato appetizer (papas rellenas), tacos, the Cubano (yum!), and Chicken and Shrimp dinner with rice and plantains. And the dipping sauces are delicious. The cilantro is my favorite—a perfect dip for plantains.
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