The story below is a preview from our May/June 2018 issue. For more, Subscribe today or view our FREE digital edition.
Photo By John Park
Experiencing the foods of the world can be timely and expensive. Fortunately for Roanokers, there’s Williamson Road.
When Jaime Sifuentes came to the United States from San Luis Potosi, Mexico, owning his own food truck was the furthest thing from his mind. He assumed he would do what he knew in Mexico, that is farm work and raising animals. He moved to Winston-Salem and spent 15 years doing just that. But, in 2009, with a new wife and future family to consider, Jaime knew he needed a financial change of direction.
Jaime readily admits he and his wife, Angeles, knew almost nothing about cooking when they opened their food truck, Taco Riendo. But, they had witnessed the food truck explosion in Winston-Salem, and thought they might take a risk; only in Roanoke, where Jaime had family and the food truck scene was still in its infancy.
At first, the couple only worked on weekends, driving up from Winston-Salem and parking at Happy’s Flea Market. “[It was] not very good. [We] didn’t know much about cooking—how to do any of it,” says Jaime, shaking his head and smiling. “But no one had a food truck like ours.”
Jaime and Angeles worked hard to improve their offerings. They visited Mexican restaurants, asking owners how they made foods the couple liked. “Some things, [owners] would tell. But I’d go do the exact thing they’d say, and it wouldn’t taste as good for me,” laughs Jaime. “So, I had to figure it out on my own; little bit at a time.”
The Sifuentes did figure it out on their own. Through much trial and error, they have established a small, yet satisfying, list of delicious Mexican-inspired foods. If Angeles didn’t know much about cooking before, she’s a pro now. Jaime says their tacos are a big seller, as are their burritos. I personally like their Taco Dorados—a menu item Jaime says they worked especially hard to get right. They are stuffed with either chicken or beef (I had chicken) and topped with salad. The fried shell is crunchy without being greasy.
There is a hint of saltiness that flavors the rest of the dish nicely. Their burrito has reason to be a fan favorite. It is substantial in size and flavor—seasoned meat, rice, lettuce, cheese and garnish of sliced jalapeno—easily added or taken away as desired. Several of their dishes come with a salad made of lettuce, radishes, tomato and avocado. All spicy sauces are served on the side.
Since 2015, the Sifuentes have called Roanoke home; and found permanent residence for Taco Riendo on Williamson Road.
Jaime says he never wants to leave. “I have customers who come from far away,” he says. “I get asked to do a lot of festivals, but I don’t want to miss my customers on Williamson Road.”
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