A Sneak Peek at Crystal Spring Grocery

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Behind the Page

A sneak peek at chef Aaron Deal’s highly anticipated Crystal Spring Grocery.

Stepping into Crystal Spring Grocery is transportive. You feel like you’re in another city, yet also have the distinct feeling that you’ve been here before. It’s possible that you have been here before—Crystal Spring Grocery was once home to Tinnell’s Finer Foods, a beloved old-fashioned grocery store with a decades-long run.

Since chef Aaron Deal, who owns River & Rail next door, took over the space last summer, he and his team have been busy gutting the space, redesigning the interior, planning menus and pivoting like crazy to open a new business in the midst of a pandemic. Crystal Spring Grocery is slated to open in October, but to tide you over, we’re sharing a sneak peek of what to expect from Deal’s specialty food shop and cafe.

The space is gorgeous, with loads of natural light filtering in through the wide front windows, picking up the gleam of the white marble counters and illuminating golden antique mirrors (snagged at Black Dog Salvage) and custom built emerald green shelves.

You’ll notice some quirky food prints adorning the walls—those were created from antique wallpaper salvaged from the space, cut and framed by local outfit RetroGetgo. The vibe adds up to equal parts quaint French bistro and modern New York deli, all shot through with a dose of laid-back Southern charm. 

The specialty food shop concept is anchored by a grab-and-go section which will offer sandwiches, salads and dips, all with an elevated twist. To wit, the chicken salad will be made with lightly smoked chicken, the hummus is topped with everything bagel seasoning, and there’s also a vibrant beet hummus on offer.

“It’s going to be important for us to be able to offer these things we make in house in a way that’s different from the person down the street,” Deal says.

It’s also important to Deal that CSG offers a progressive menu, so gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan items, such as a báhn mì made with tofu and veganaise, will also feature prominently.

As for Tinnell’s beloved cheese slaw? It’ll be back, though Deal and chef Matt Lintz, who will oversee the menu and kitchen, can’t help but tinker just a little. If you’ve never had cheese slaw, CSG’s is the platonic ideal: just the right amount of mayo to bind the shredded cheese, plus fresh jalapeños for a more pronounced bite.

Gourmet grocery provisions include wine, craft beer, pickles, cured meats, olives, nuts and cheese, plus locally crafted items such as Pastel’s baked goods, RND coffee and Storied Goods’ sugar cubes.

The café part of the concept is all about made-to-order salads and sandwiches, including hot sandwiches such as pastrami, roast turkey and meatball subs. As of now, all food will be prepared as takeaway items.

Once the space is open for dine-in, guests can order beer on tap and wines by the glass to accompany made-to-order or grab-and-go provisions.

In the future, Deal hopes to add prepared meals to the to-go offering, as well as catering and family-style menus. Further down the line, he hopes to utilize the space to host wine tastings, culinary classes and other special events.

About the Writer:

Layla’s food obsession started early; growing up in cities like Paris, Aberdeen and Jakarta, Layla counts escargots, Haggis and beef rendang among her first memorable meals. She’s always looking for the next exciting bite—and relishes uncovering the story behind it. Her work has appeared on Saveur, Food Network and Refinery29 and in The Chicago Tribune, Drinks International and Our State. Follow her on Instagram @theglassofrose or on Twitter @glassofrose.