Frankie Rowland's Steakhouse

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Frankie Rowland's Steakhouse 1

Known for its steaks, Frankie Rowland's also has a fine touch with martinis and desserts.

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Frankie Rowland's Steakhouse 2

Although steak is its specialty, Frankie Rowland's also offers selections like jumbo lump crabcakes and grouper (shown above) that are equally cooked to perfection.

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Frankie Rowland's Steakhouse on Jefferson Avenue, in the gritty heart of Downtown Roanoke, would make a fine setting for a scene in a Dashiell Hammett private eye story. Dark mahogany, luxuriant chairs bound in rich green leather, and just enough light to see the double-cross before it’s too late.

At the bar, a somewhat limited selection of beers – a good steak and a cold draft are a fine match, in my book – was offset by a downright notorious selection of specialty martinis. Black raspberry, the infamous pineapple martini that spawned a wave of imitation in downtown Roanoke some years back, and expertly prepared classic martinis serve as refreshing aperitifs. Beautiful, seductive and a little dangerous, each is a femme fatale in a glass.

When our table was ready (actually, a while after it was ready; we had been running late, and a gracious host staff kept it waiting), we took a moment to peruse a refreshingly simple menu: all entrees and side items are offered a la carte. The obvious showcase is the offering of steaks, though seafood and lamb options are also available. A well-traveled wine list (and a bit of help from our warm and attentive server) offered a fine accompaniment.

An appetizer of succulent roasted duck leg fairly slid off the bone, and was matched very well with a berry sauce and greens, while delicately steamed oysters on the half shell came served with Tobasco and lemon, but were much better paired with a spicy relish.

My ribeye – a magnificent 22-ounce cut of tender and well-marbled beef – was served unadorned, showcasing the impressive flavor of the meat with minimal distractions. This steak was outstanding, even to a steak enthusiast. If I have a bone to pick, it would be that I ordered medium rare, and it was served Pittsburgh-rare, charred outside and less done inside than I’d have preferred. It was delicious nevertheless, and went well with creamy potatoes au gratin under a golden crust.

My wife’s jumbo lump crabcakes were full of firm chunks of meat, and paired nicely with fresh asparagus – cooked to an al dente perfection – in hollandaise sauce.

A smooth, rich creme brulee with a decadent caramel crust and a seasonal apple cheesecake gave this dark tale a happy ending while revealing a broad range of kitchen talent to match the front-of-the-house workers’ ample skills and welcoming hospitality.

For more information, please visit our restaurant directory for: Frankie Rowland's Steakhouse.