The story below is from our November/December 2019 issue. For the full issue Subscribe today, view our FREE interactive digital edition or download our FREE iOS app!
Local “food evangelists” share their favorite picks - some you may not even know about yet!
Clockwise: John Park, Tiffany Jones, Layla Khoury-Hanold, Ashley Cuoco
Clockwise: Richee Freeze Double Cheeseburger; Zorba's Gyro Omelet; Ben Gui Sushi Dynamite Roll; Vina Cafe's Pho Dac Biet
I admit, writing this article was self-serving. I’m new in town and nothing makes me feel like a local faster than discovering off-the-beaten-path places to eat. But whether you’re a Roanoke native or newbie, there are plenty of gems to unearth. We tapped local food-loving Instagrammers and hospitality pros to share their favorite under-the-radar dishes, from a food truck’s sleeper hit to a secret-menu sandwich at a downtown institution.
Dynamite Roll at Ben Gui Sushi
Ashley Cuoco, food photographer, @ashcuoco
As a food photographer, Ashley Cuoco loves to document and share her culinary adventures. One of her favorite discoveries is Ben Gui Sushi, whose strip mall locale belies the fact that chef-owner Ben Gui Chen has been turning out Roanoke’s freshest sushi for more than a decade. Ashley enjoys the Dynamite roll, featuring eight pieces of spicy mixed fish with masago (fish eggs). Order your heat level on a scale of one to ten; a seven is just enough to give it a kick.
Larb Salad at City Corner 2
Michael O’Hara, Scratch Biscuit Company server
As a server at Scratch Biscuit, Michael O’Hara spends his days surrounded by biscuits and barbecue. But on his days off you’ll find him sating his Thai food cravings at City Corner 2. He’s a fan of the laid-back vibe as well as the boldly seasoned dishes. Among his favorites are the larb salad, in which ground meat (beef, chicken or pork) is cooked with roasted rice powder, sluiced with lime juice and a healthy dose of chili, then festooned with fresh basil, mint and lemongrass.
Tamales at Grandin Village Farmers Market Ariel Lev, @eatrke
Ariel Lev, the tastemaker behind @eatrke, is a self-professed salsa fiend. She’s particularly smitten with ‘Ot Chihuahua, Laura Guajardo’s line of homemade salsas. When Laura began serving tamales at the Grandin Village farmers market, Ariel knew she was in for a treat. The tidy parcels of masa are steamed in a corn husk and come in flavors such as shredded pork or chicken-and-mushroom. Doctor it up with fresh lime juice, beans and salsa (try the Thai-chili-bolstered roja).
Bunch of B.S. at Hanu Truck
Brittany Smith, @eatingroanoke
Hanu Truck is known for its Korean-street-inspired rice and noodle bowls, but don’t sleep on the sides. Brittany Smith, aka @eatingroanoke, loves a funky twist on a classic and The Bunch of B.S. hits the mark. It features a hearty helping of fried Brussels sprouts punched up with chili-lime fish sauce and is so good, it’s even been known to convert the most sprouts-averse eater.
Lengua en Salsa Verde at Mi Tapatía
Aaron Deal, Chef-Owner at River & Rail, @chefdeal
This no-frills taqueria on Williamson Road is rightfully known for its tacos but don’t overlook the house specialties. Aaron Deal, the chef-owner of River & Rail, is a fan of the lengua en salsa verde, or braised beef tongue in green salsa. He compares the meat’s fork-tender texture to that of juicy brisket and loves how the tomatillo-and-jalapeno salsa’s spice and tang help cut the richness. Pair with a side of cheesy chori-beans, served with tortillas or chips for scooping.
Thai Chicken Wings at Red Jasmine Thai Restaurant
Becky Ellis, food blogger, @bubblybeeboop
If you need a reason to venture to Vinton, Red Jasmine Thai Restaurant is it. Food blogger Becky Ellis praises owner Phasook “Noot” Lenoel’s homey cooking and ability to remember regulars’ orders. It’s no surprise then, that she knows Becky’s standby is the marinated-then-deep-fried Thai chicken wings, served with a sweet dipping sauce. The crispy wings come six to an order; Becky and her husband split an order as an app, but we wouldn’t blame you for getting your own.
Double Cheeseburger at Richee Freeze
John Park, food photographer, @hungryasianrke
Burgers are plentiful in this town, but Richee Freeze’s old-fashioned version is among food photographer John Park’s favorites. John discovered the cash-only joint thanks to his wife Sharon (aka @mrshungryasian), a Roanoke native who ate here often as a kid. John concedes that the burger doesn’t win points for being fancy or using local ingredients, but that’s beside the point. Try John’s go-to, a double cheeseburger with fries, or Sharon’s, a Steak-umm sandwich with onion rings.
The Secret Sandwich Menu at Texas Tavern
Matt Bullington, owner of Texas Tavern
There’s an unofficial “secret sandwich menu” at this downtown Roanoke institution, each named after the diners who created them. Order the “Jumbo Jim” (aka “the 9-1-1”—you’ll just have to ask) and you’ll get two cheesy Westerns (cheese-and-egg-topped burgers) stacked Big Mac-style with sausage patties and cheese. Fourth-generation Texas Tavern owner Matt Bullington’s go-to is a “double meat Cheesy, add hot dog chili.” It’s thicker and richer than the chili in a “bowl with” and Matt loves how it plays off the burger’s tangy relish.
Pho Dac Biet at Vina Cafe
Patrick & Jessica Ohpark, co-owners of Hanu Truck
When Hanu Truck owners Patrick and Jessica Ohpark crave pho, they turn to Vina Cafe. They laud the rice noodle soup’s flavorful broth, which husband-wife team Morris Pham and Peggy Dinh make from scratch, simmering beef or chicken bones for up to ten hours along with star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and coriander pods. The Ohparks’ standby is the Pho Dac Biet, a generous bowl of rice noodles and broth brimming with beef meatballs, tendon, tripe, sliced eye round steak and brisket.
Gyro Omelet at Zorba
Andrea Fink, @nomsinthenoke
Adel Eltawansy’s Greek-Mediterranean restaurant earned legions of fans when it was in Roanoke’s Market Building, but loyalists have followed him to Salem. Andrea Fink, aka @nomsinthenoke, is a fan of the Greek breakfast, especially the gyro omelet, a fluffy masterpiece chockful of peppers, mushrooms, onions and feta that’s served with tzatziki, a yogurt-cucumber sauce. Pair with a side of fried, seasoned potatoes.
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