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Mark Henderson was a veteran of many restaurant management jobs when he took the leap, along with seven people he supervised, to buy what is now Hollywood’s.
Mark Henderson sits across from me in a long booth at the back corner of Hollywood’s Restaurant and Bakery. He sets a piece of scrap paper with dates neatly printed in black ink, on the table in front of him. He scans the room, watching his staff finish morning prep work. Then he turns to me, says something about being horrible with dates, and begins talking about his employees. This dishwasher does every job in the place. That server who just turned 40, she’s been with him since she was 21. Henderson—nicknamed Hollywood years ago by some friends as a joke—keeps on like this; deflecting his own rising story, causing light to shine on his people instead.
Henderson began his career as a fifth-grade substitute teacher in Franklin County. The Rocky Mount native loved his experience. As such, he accepted a position teaching high school remedial math. Sometime during that year, he decided to work at the Ground Round in Roanoke as a host. By summertime, Henderson was offered a management position.
“I just wanted to meet people,” he laughs, shaking his head at providence’s strange ways.
That was 1980. Over the next 22 years, Henderson worked as a general manager at two more Roanoke restaurant chains—Chi-Chi’s and Texas Steakhouse.
Henderson liked his work as a general manager, but he started wishing for a restaurant of his own. A restaurant not like the chain restaurants he’d been managing.
“I’ve always said I wanted a joint,” he says. “A really good restaurant that’s…not pretentious. People can feel good if they have a suit and tie on or shorts on. And a wide variety on the menu.”
In January of 2002, in a convergence of seemingly unrelated events, Henderson was able to see his restaurant wish come true. He left Texas Steakhouse, and, with his wife, Chris Henderson, bought Wildflour Cafe on Williamson Road. Seven of Henderson’s steakhouse employees moved with him. Slowly the couple began making the place their own.
“When we first took over, it was scary,” says Henderson of those early years. “I remember going home one night…and saying to my wife, ‘You know, I’ve never had a job I couldn’t quit.’ Everything we had was attached to the loan. That was scary. But, you know, we just kept working and working, and slowly started to see things improve.”
Fourteen years later, Hollywood’s truly is the easy-going diner experience Henderson imagined. The photography decorating the walls is of family vacations and local scenes shot by Henderson’s son who, coincidentally, lives in Hollywood, California. The giant United States and world maps in the back are covered with pins and personal notes, some in different languages, courtesy of patrons from around the globe. Henderson says Hollywood’s has built out-of-town regular I-81 customers; from Nashville to D.C., Atlanta to Pennsylvania.
“One family we watched grow up,” says Henderson. “We knew their dog’s name. Bobbie [Morrison, one of Henderson’s original seven] would take their dog water out to the car.”
All these things have helped Hollywood’s earn top spots and Excellence Awards on Trip Advisor. Henderson beams when he mentions this, giving all the credit to his employees.
“You say food, but I say it’s the people that’s made this place. I’m so blessed by my people.”
But the food is good. Hollywood’s Fried Green Tomatoes, served atop a bed of cheesy grits, had my husband and me reminiscing of a lunch we ate years ago at famed Magnolias in Charleston, South Carolina. I also enjoy Hollywood’s Smokin’ Bones, a menu item dear to my Midwestern heart.
After years of living in the South, I have come to appreciate—but never love—vinegar-based sauces. Hollywood’s North Carolina barbecue sauce helps me appreciate them more. I find it more substantial than the vinegar sauces I’m used to, with a nice spicy-sweet zip to it.
I am satisfied equally by Hollywood’s Honey Ginger Chicken Wrap as I am Charlie’s Pimento Cheeseburger. To me, these two menu items reflect the sort of yin and yang of Hollywood’s restaurant-diner menu. Henderson says his executive chef, Charles Alden, does an amazing job keeping the menu simple but well-rounded. Foods like Cranberry Salmon served with Sweet Potato Hash, and Fried Oysters (an item Henderson initially scoffed at) are as popular as their Fried Catfish and Cobb Salad. Henderson says every year they evolve their menu, adding as many new items as possible, deleting what doesn’t sell.
As for Hollywood’s bakery side, Henderson partners with Jeff and Teal Batson’s On the Rise Bakery downtown. The partnership is wonderfully symbiotic. Henderson is quick to give credit and direct customers to the Batsons when Hollywood’s baked goods are praised. He says he always remembered the actions of Kris Kringle in the movie “Miracle on 34th Street.” That idea of always putting customers first made an impression on him.
Of course it did.
That’s what makes Hollywood’s a joint in the best sense of the word. It’s a place where good food is joined together with great service, in an atmosphere where people feel important; even like stars.
Hollywood’s
11am - 10pm Monday - Saturday
7770 Williamson Road, Roanoke.
540-362-1812; hollywoodsrestaurant.com