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David Hungate
Thelma's Chicken & Waffles
Thelma's Chicken & Waffles' classic-combination namesake dish.
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David Hungate
Junior Harris
Junior Harris, above, is co-owner with Chris Mayo of Thelma’s Chicken & Waffles.
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David Hungate
Thelma's Chicken & Waffles
Thelma's Chicken & Waffles' classic-combination namesake dish.
There is only one establishment in the city that I can walk in at my best – on a Tuesday for lunch, fooling people that I’m a young professional; and at my worst – on a Saturday for brunch, struggling from the night prior and not fooling anyone – and feel comfortable just the same. The place is Thelma’s Chicken & Waffles, and if you’re one of the seven people who haven’t heard of it since the move from Orange and Williamson, it’s now in the old Beamer’s/Trio/Meze spot at the corner of Market and Church.
“The move downtown has been great,” says co-owner Chris Mayo, “and I think it’s been so successful because we’re bringing something you couldn’t get before in terms of the food and ambiance – where else can you get chicken, waffles and meat loaf on the same plate, and served with love?”
Since the move, the restaurant has quickly gone from a well-kept secret next to a sketchy hourly motel to the favorite new spot in town. I have to admit the success is a little bittersweet for me, as I can no longer walk in and expect a table immediately, but Tiff any, Bernard and the rest of the Family still manage to make me (and everyone else who walks in) feel like the VIP I thought I was when there wasn’t as much competition.
This is part of what separates Thelma’s, as the experience starts not with the first bite, but when you walk in the door and realize the charm of the staff is worth a visit in itself. The inspired greeting, the general tough love, and Tiff any knowing I want two hot dogs, corned beef hash and a biscuit, and two forks on Saturday because I always drop one, is not some hollow attempt to lure customers, but a genuine approach to life that is as contagious as the food is good.
And the waffle batter, fried-chicken breading and green beans are as rich as the atmosphere, as every meal continues to justify any additional wait from the hordes of people discovering or re-discovering the place. One bite of waffle, chicken, or anything else on the menu and you’ll understand why they call it soul food, as it’s obvious that a lot more than just raw ingredients goes into making it.
And the principle is applied to every aspect of the restaurant. From the people to the music to the “Run Tel Dat” slogan on the T-shirts – interpretation of which is left to you, but I have an idea of what it means and do it every opportunity I get (like this one). You’re hurting no one but yourself if you don’t go experience the soul of the place; or at worst, just eat the best damn waffle you’ve ever had in your life.
Thelma’s Chicken & Waffles. 315 Market St., SW., Roanoke. 343-8888.