Road Trip to Roanoke

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Features

The story below is from our July/August 2024 issue. For more stories like it, Subscribe Today. Thank you! 

An out-of-towner discovers the incredible charm of our region and its friendly faces. 

Day One

In early spring, the drive to the Blue Ridge region of Virginia is scattered with pops of color – similar to the autumn but enticing hues of purple and pink. A quick internet search revealed I was admiring Eastern Redbud, coincidentally named the state’s “Wildflower of the Year’ in 2013 by the Virginia Native Plant Society. And it’s no wonder; the interstate is covered with these stunning trees, making my trip from Atlanta wonderfully scenic. The drive, in fact, felt surprisingly brief – though Google Maps insisted it was seven solid hours. Perhaps those beautiful blue peaks beckoning my eye in the distance somehow shortened the journey.

I’d booked lodging for my long weekend at Liberty Trust Hotel, situated in the heart of downtown Roanoke. Its stately form stood against the cerulean sky, and, though I was asked if I needed assistance with luggage, I politely declined, having just one bag to bring upstairs to the fifth floor. Roanoke is beautiful, I typed on my Instagram story, showing off that I’d not only made it but was enjoying the skyline from my private windows. After “resting” from the trip (honestly, I was far too excited), I walked over to Six and Sky, a panoramic rooftop bar and restaurant just a block or so away, located on Center in the Square’s rooftop and freshly opened weeks before.

Once settled in at the bustling bar, a friendly mixologist offered the name of her eyelash technician after she batted them at me and I complimented her – then, after I said I was visiting, she shared Roanoke’s nickname among locals: “Welcome to the ‘Noke!” She and the other bartender, who crafted a gin cocktail to my not-too-sweet specifications, informed me that Roanoke is undergoing a bit of a renaissance, just in time to pique their 20-something interests and encourage them to stay in the place they grew up.

After cocktail hour, I headed back to Liberty Trust, where I would be dining in style inside the Vault. The Vault is cleverly named to commemorate the early 20th century, when the building served as First National Bank, Roanoke’s financial hub. Now on the National Register of Historic Places, both hotel and restaurant allow visitors to bask in hospitality and history. My dinner began with one of their best appetizers, Devils on Horseback: a delicious concoction with fresh dates, bacon and tangy goat cheese. While I savored, Chef Andy Schlosser and I discussed everything from food to music — until my bowl of ramen came out, and I got too distracted. “This is the most perfect soft-boiled egg I’ve ever eaten,” I told the chef. “It could be a dessert.”

Day Two

For Kathryn Lucas, my lunch companion the next day at Crystal Spring Grocery, the story about the two young bartenders staying in the area came as no surprise. Born and raised in Roanoke herself, Kathryn moved to the Midwest for college and decided to return home after graduation. She now works as the director of public relations for Visit Virginia’s Blue Ridge – the gracious host of my weekend trip – and treasures the opportunity to share the city’s established neighborhoods and businesses with first-timers like me, as well as spread news of Roanoke’s evolution.

“When I graduated high school, we had one brewery downtown – now, a decade later, we have several,” she explained to me over a delicious plate of French fries and a tasty Caesar. “We also didn’t have Crafteria or boutique hotels like the Liberty Trust or Fire Station One. They’ve all popped up recently.”

I’d already been to Crafteria for a much-needed latte from Little Green Hive, and I fully intended to go back and check out The Vintage Vault for a vinyl record or two. Noticing how the Crystal Spring Grocery was filled with local groceries, greeting cards, ice cream and more – and realizing Crafteria also boasted the handiwork of locals – I wondered aloud if artisanal items is one of Roanoke’s trademarks.

“We definitely appreciate local,” Kathryn agreed.

After lunch, I found myself at Taubman Museum of Art, a lovely space with complimentary admission. According to PR director Sunny Nelson, the museum’s special touches were designed by architect Randall Stout to honor the  landscape: waterfall-like stairs, zinc paneling, native limestone from the Virginia Tech quarry and a 77-foot stunning glass atrium to mimic the famous Mill Mountain star. I was enchanted by the museum’s permanent collection, which includes a combination of classic and contemporary art, and spent ample time perusing the galleries, taking in Judith Leiber’s sparkling handbags and marveling at an original Norman Rockwell.

Later, at indie bookstore Book No Further, I scouted the novel I’d been eyeballing a while: The Bee Sting by Irish author Paul Murray. That’s when store owner Doloris E. Vest let me in on a secret: The shop stocks British paperbacks early and sells them for folks who don’t prefer hardcovers. “Genius!” I exclaimed. Naturally, I ended up buying a second book alongside Murray’s – at paperback prices, why not?

“Do you want to keep the British flag bookmark?” Vest asked.

Of course I did.

Following a short reprieve in my room with new books and vinyl, I was treated to one of the best meals of my life at bloom Restaurant & Wine Bar in the Wasena neighborhood. The small-plate menu encouraged me to order a few things, and my favorites included the “Horiatiki” salad, carrots with mint yogurt, fried potatoes and a charcuterie plate. (Yes, I pigged out. . . and it was worth it.)

“Are you ready for me to take this?” my attentive server asked, gesturing at the whipped camembert I’d not yet devoured in my attempt to save room.

“No, please, NEVER take it,” I replied. “I want to be BURIED with this cheese.”

Amused by my fervor, he boxed up my leftovers, and I happily ate them the next day for breakfast.

Day Three

On the third morning, I met fellow attendees for the Food and Cultural Tour at historic Hotel Roanoke (where they fed us the richest, dreamiest seafood bisque I’d ever sipped) and prepared to explore and eat around the city. We stopped at a handful of unique eateries, including Cedars Lebanese Restaurant (close to my heart since I have Lebanese roots); Texas Tavern (with cheeseburgers as nostalgic as the vibe); Billy’s (where we sampled local beer); and chocolatepaper, home of my first chocolate potato chip.

Pleasantly full, I headed to Black Dog Salvage to chat up general manager Eric Moore. The place is a DIY paradise, and even for folks like me who aren’t

Evening was spent in the neighboring town of Salem, where mixologist Steve Cadora of Brood made me the finest old-fashioned ever, with homemade demerara syrup, just in time for happy hour. And dinner at Frankie Rowland’s Steakhouse – beneath the brand’s chic new boutique hotel – was utterly perfect: a dozen plump oysters, finely crusted steak, crispy Brussels and bananas foster.

Sensing a celebratory vibe at the neighboring table, I greeted my fellow diners heartily, and we compared notes on exceptional meals and service. “This is our favorite restaurant,” they beamed.

Day Four

After checking out of Liberty Trust, I headed for one final treat: a caffeine fix at RND Coffee Lounge, which cleverly stands for the “Roasters Next Door.” Waiting on my beverage, I came across one of the coolest things I’d ever seen in a coffee shop: a gratitude journal, where patrons could pen inspiring words about whatever they were thankful for that day.

My entry, of course, was all about Roanoke.

The story above is from our July/August 2024 issue. For more stories like it, Subscribe Today. Thank you!