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The time is ripe for raising a glass to Virginia wine.
Virginia wine is kind of a big deal. According to the Virginia Wineries Association, there are 300 wineries that grow 28 types of grapes on 4,000 acres spanning 10 growing regions. It all adds up to an industry that generates $1.37 billion annually and attracts an estimated two million visitors per year. Though the history of winemaking in Virginia can be traced back to the first settlers, it wasn’t until the 1970s that winemaking took off here. Thanks to a handful of entrepreneurial winemakers who nurtured the grape varietals that flourished best, Virginia winemaking blossomed. And local wine shop owners have taken note.
Bill Philips, owner of Mr. Bill’s Wine Cellar, credits the late Dennis Horton of Horton Vineyards in Gordonsville as a leader in grape experimentation. “He was great for travelling around to other wineries and trying to find grapes that were growing in regions that emulated somewhat what we had in Virginia.”
Horton was one of the first to plant Viognier, a white wine grape variety that had seldom been grown outside of the Rhone Valley.
“Virginia makes some of the best Viognier that you can get for the money anywhere in the world,” Philips says. “We helped put it on the radar—it’s become our shining star.”
Other varietals that have become calling cards for Virginia winemakers – and names to look for on store shelves – include: Petit Verdot, characterized by dark fruits such as blackberry, black cherry and black plum; Petit Manseng, aromatic, bright and tropical-fruit forward; and Cabernet Franc, spicy and peppery with notes of plum, blackberry or tobacco.
Though you’re likely familiar with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, these grapes, when grown in Virginia, yield a completely different result. As Philips explains, grapes grown in warmer climates, such as in California, tend to get much riper. This increases their sugar content and yields wines with full-blown fruit flavors and higher levels of alcohol, around 13-14% (sometimes higher). Because Virginia has a cooler climate, grapes don’t get as ripe, so wines often have a lower alcohol percentage, around 12%, as well as higher acidity. Acidity is a good thing – it helps to balance out a wine and prevent the fruit from overpowering the palate. It also makes wines more versatile, especially when it comes to food pairings.
When Devon Steiner was the manager at River & Rail, one of her go-to pairings was matching the cheeseburger with Ox-Eye Vineyards’ Lemberger, a soft red with notes of black pepper and cherry. Now, as general manager of Crystal Spring Grocery, Steiner oversees the wine selection and considers Virginia wines a natural complement to the store’s assortment of local, artisanal goods. For a dynamite high-low pairing, she recommends picking up a pint of pimento cheese and a bottle of Rosemont sparkling rosé.
“There are folks in Virginia making truly world-class wines that can stand up to the wines from anywhere in the world as far as quality goes,” Philips says. Other local wine pros share that sentiment and are spotlighting Virginia wines as part of their shop’s offering. Here, they share what makes Virginia wine so special and the bottles they’re crushing on now.
Bill Philips: Owner, Mr. Bill’s Wine Cellar
“The state itself has been a huge supply of knowledge and help to the Virginia wine industry; the food science department at Virginia Tech has an enology lab. The ones who make the best wines are the ones that seek out resources and consult with each other.”
Pro pick: One of Philips’ favorite expressions of Viognier is produced by Michael Shaps at his eponymous Charlottesville vineyard. He describes it as big and bold with great acidity and fruit-forward notes of stone fruit.
Curbside service: Search Mr. Bill’s entire inventory online (you can refine by region and varietal) to place an order for curbside pick-up.
Devon Steiner: General Manager, Crystal Spring Grocery
“One of craziest things about Virginia is the weather. One year we could have a very hot or cool summer, or a very dry or wet one, so each vintage can be so drastically different—which can be a challenge for Virginia winemakers. But it’s interesting to see the same wine in two different years and taste the different nuances.”
Current crush: Blenheim Vineyards. “[Winemaker Kirsty Harmon] is growing cool varieties like Grüner Veltliner, a traditional Austrian grape, and Albariño, a Spanish grape. Their whites stand out to me—their blends, Claim House and their Viognier.”
Members only: Check out the “Deep Cuts” tier of CSG’s Wine Club for more of Steiner’s favorites. Virginia wines will be regularly featured in all three membership tiers but will get top billing during October’s Virginia wine month.
For more local wine tips, including where to find it and expert advice from Jimmy Muscaro of The Jolly Grape, Brian Powell of Wine Gourmet and Martin Keck of Barrel Chest Wine & Bar, get the latest issue on newsstands now or read our free digital edition below!
The story above is a preview from our March/April 2021 issue. For more stories, subscribe today or view our FREE digital edition. Thank you for supporting local journalism!
