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Creative dishes and specialty craft beer pairings make Lefty’s a great spot to eat.
John Park
Frank Perkovich grew up in a small suburb outside of Los Angeles, California. As did his wife. As did their parents. Southern California is what they knew. It’s what they loved. However, when it came time to raise a family of their own, the couple decided they wanted something different for their two boys. Someplace not L.A. So, in 2001, they chose a swath of country and began mulling over options. By fortuitous circumstance involving climate, community and the opportunity to own a golf course, the Perkovich family landed in Blacksburg.
The golf course didn’t pan out, but the family liked Blacksburg and decided to stay. Frank busied himself with building houses until one day, in 2004, while playing golf with a friend, a new opportunity arose. That opportunity turned into Lefty’s Main Street Grille.
Perkovich says owning a restaurant was something he and his wife had often talked about. “We’d toyed with the idea of owning a restaurant when the kids grew up … somewhere like Florence,” he says, sliding that last bit in sideways, letting the irony speak for itself. Instead, the Perkoviches opened their dream restaurant in the heart of Blacksburg while their boys, Walker and George, were smack in the middle of childhood.
John Park
Lefty’s—a name their son, George, came up with as a tribute to Perkovich’s left-handedness—opened in an old Long John Silver’s building on Main Street. Its food focus was California inspired; a cuisine Blacksburg folks had yet to experience in 2004. “We served things we took for granted but were very uncommon out here,” explains Perkovich. Items such as avocados and calamari raised eyebrows and took gentle and persistent coaxing to convince local customers of their goodness.
It took a couple of years for Lefty’s California cuisine to catch on, but once it did, business doubled. Then doubled again. The Perkoviches knew they needed a larger location if they wanted to continue reaching folks with their fresh, creative cuisine. They found such a place one block from their original location. Not only did the new space allow for better flow and comfort for both customers and kitchen staff, it allowed Perkovich to pursue another passion: craft beer. For Perkovich, the brew aspect added two benefits: visual interest and the opportunity for diners to experience another California-based trend: pairing specialty brews with foods.
John Park
“We have good food here,” says Perkovich. “You know, not too pretty to eat but interesting textures and tastes. So, I wanted good beer to go with it.”
Perkovich works closely with his brew master to create beers that complement Lefty’s menu items. But he is also no brew pub snob. He says his goal is to celebrate all great craft brews, not just the ones made on-site. Of the 24 taps at Lefty’s, eight to nine are always Right Mind Brewing drafts (“…because, lefties are always in their right minds,” Perkovich says to me, smiling and nodding toward my left hand, which is busy jotting notes). The rest of the drafts are a mix of local and international excellently crafted brews.
Fresh, California-inspired cuisine is no longer novelty. However, this doesn’t mean Lefty’s food is standard or boring. On the contrary. I’ve not had one thing on their menu I wouldn’t recommend. I don’t do favorites. But if I did, I would say their Pulled Pork-n-Mac Flatbread Pizza is it. The combination of sharp and distinct cheeses with sesame glaze and pulled pork—yum. Or maybe the Tortellini Vegetariano with its gorgeous mustard glazed cream sauce and mix of fresh sautéed vegetables.
John Park
Or, their salads—any of them, even their most simple House Salad—drizzled over with their homemade dressings. In fact, it is the sauces and dressings that makes Lefty’s food stand out. Oftentimes, sauces are used to mask low-quality ingredients. At Lefty’s, the opposite is true. Glazes are light but interesting. Sauces are delicious but not overpowering. It all works together to do exactly what Frank says; that is, make Lefty’s food interesting and flavorful, without being fussy.
Now both Perkovich boys are grown. George manages Lefty’s, and Walker manages 622 North, the family’s restaurant, bar and wine bar downtown. And while Perkovich is enjoying an easier pace now that his boys are (mostly) in charge, he still gets excited when thinking about Lefty’s food.
“I’m very proud of our food. We work hard at it. We really do. I enjoy thinking about menu items and ingredients. When I’m cooking on the weekends, I don’t sleep at night, I’m just constantly thinking about the food I’m going to make the next day. Still after 14 years. Every day.”
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