Bushi

by

The story below is from our November/December 2018 issue. For the full story Subscribe today, view our FREE interactive digital edition or download our FREE iOS app!

Roanoke’s “sushi guy” has blended his love of art, food and health to create unique burritos and poke bowls for adventurous patrons.

In Japan, the code of conduct for a samurai warrior is called bushido—or, “way of the warrior.” 

Bushido includes the pursuit and practice of character traits such as honor, courage, frugality, mastery of skill and loyalty. It’s an ancient term with ancient connections; not often considered when thinking of a 21st century quick-bite sushi joint.

Unless you’re Justin Yun, co-owner of Bushi restaurant, located in the heart of downtown Roanoke.

Yun is a first-generation American who grew up in Roanoke, graduating Cave Spring High School in 2007. His family is Korean, its members hailing from both the north and south. 

After high school, Yun attended Full Sail University in Winterpark, Florida, an arts school located just outside Orlando. 

“I was going to be an artist,” explains Yun, describing his accelerated path toward a degree in computer animation, loading up class schedules and skipping summer breaks, only to graduate as the recession of 2009 hit. Yun’s post-college job offer with Pixar was pulled. There were no jobs anywhere. “2009 was a bad year for artists,” Yun says, reflecting on the beginning of his winding journey that eventually led him to the sushi business.

Yun spent the next several years in and out of steady employment, working in every field from dance studio instructor to investment banker. After moving through a low point and several twists of fate–to include meeting Bushi co-owner, Jonathan Kelly, on a trip to Nicaragua–Yun unexpectedly became Roanoke’s “sushi guy.” 

“Art is my thing,” says Yun, showing me pictures on his phone of the gorgeousness he’s created with food, sushi in particular. “Sushi is a great medium.”

It helps that Yun is a food lover and is incredibly health-conscious. In fact, when considering all that makes Bushi its own unique eatery, the trifecta of Yun’s passions–art, food and health–is hard to miss. Yun used his past work in computer animation to help him design Bushi’s inside space and décor. He used his understanding of color therapy to decide on everything from paint colors to Bushi’s food-ingredient palate. And when working in his kitchen the three months before Bushi opened, Yun used his obsession with healthy eating to develop menu items and sauces that are both edifying and wholesome.

Because Yun is already connected to the sushi industry (besides Bushi, Yun owns several sushi bars located inside area Kroger grocery stores), finding ingredient sources for Bushi was easy. He says he worked hard to find the freshest seafood source that delivers inland. Bushi’s seafood comes flash-frozen and is cut first thing every morning. This, along with an array of nutrient-dense topping options ranging from kale to ginger to edamame, makes eating at Bushi healthy and fun.

At Bushi, diners have two options: the sushi burrito, or poke (meaning pocket in Japan) bowl. My preference is the poke bowl. This is two-fold: ease of eating and power over toppings. Building a poke bowl is a four-step process (which, admittedly, can be intimidating the first time). First, you pick your rice base (white, brown or Bushi–green tea-infused white). Next, you choose your protein, then add your toppings. Finally, you add a sauce. 

I usually choose either Bushi or brown rice for my poke bowl base, and always salmon and tuna as my proteins. Then comes the fun part. Like a kid in a candy shop, my eyes scan Bushi’s colorful selection of toppings, mentally marrying combinations in my mouth—crunchy, sweet, green, satisfying. And then the sauce, the final decision making my poke bowl complete.

Bushi’s burritos are also tasty, like eating a sushi roll before it’s been cut into bite-sized rounds. There are six on the menu, all unique combinations of proteins, toppings and sauces, wrapped in wild pacific nori and one’s choice of rice. I’ve tried two different burritos: the Bushi Special with Bushi rice, and the Tempered Crab with brown rice. While I usually prefer brown rice, I found out quickly it isn’t the best option in a sushi burrito as it doesn’t stick the way white rice does. Even when I ate it as instructed—peeling the paper wrapping away as I went—I still made a mess. Then again, sometimes I make a mess eating sushi, especially when it’s stuffed full of goodness the way Bushi burritos are. Mess or no mess, it’s worth the effort. 

Yun understands the Bushi concept is hot—for now. “You have to stay versatile,” says Yun. “The moment you start to feel comfortable, it’s time to move on.”

“Do you feel comfortable with Bushi yet?” I ask him, holding my breath a little as I await his response. 

He instantly chuckled and shook his head.

“No. Definitely not.”

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