The story below is from our May/June 2021 issue. For more stories like it, Subscribe Today. Thank you!
Prepare to feel right at home in Lydia’s Italian Kitchen, with the kind of food your grandmother used to make.
One of the greatest gifts a local restaurant can offer its hometown is that of nurturing hospitality and respite from the intense pace of 21st Century life. Since 2018, Lydia’s Italian Kitchen has been such a gift to the Salem community.
“I just chose my parent’s life,” says Billy Newcomb, as he begins his story that ends in Lydia’s Italian Kitchen. The Blacksburg native grew up in the world of restaurants and entrepreneurial pursuits. His father was a regional Burger King franchise owner; Newcomb’s first paycheck came from working in one of his father’s stores. By the time Newcomb’s father was ready to retire in 2014 and pass the business to his son, Newcomb was one of his district managers.
When given the choice between taking over his father’s franchise operation or investing in something new, Newcomb chose the latter. The father-son team began searching for opportunities, naturally gravitating toward the food industry. They discovered the long-time owners of Salem’s Pizza Pasta Pit were also ready to retire, and looking for capable hands in which to entrust their well-loved pizza joint. From the Newcombs’ point of view, Pizza Pasta Pit was an excellent investment. It was in a great location with high visibility. The previous owners had worked diligently over the years to offer diners a high-quality, gluten-free menu, which Newcomb recognized and deeply appreciated. They also saw the creative potential for the restaurant down the road.
On October 1, 2014, Newcomb officially took over the business of Pizza Pasta Pit. Over the next four years, he made a series of small “tweaks.” He began creating in-house, homemade recipes the restaurant could call its own. He began searching for new and creative menu items in order to “raise the ceiling,” as Newcomb calls it, on the restaurant’s potential. He also began dreaming and planning for an entirely new vision for the place.
“We wanted a ‘Come sit down and we’ll take care of you,’ feel for our customers,” says Newcomb.
Newcomb says it was one of his long-time employees who provided him the inspiration and vision that ultimately shaped Lydia’s Italian Kitchen. Every Saturday night, the family would eat dinner out together. This ritual impacted Newcomb.
“Watching them I realized, those are the kind of people I want in here,” he says. “I want families here. And, I also want date nights to happen here. I want lunch to happen here. And, I want groups to be able to gather here, too.”
Newcomb recognized this was a gift he was well-situated to offer. He could establish a restaurant both easy to bring unpredictable toddlers, and yet enjoyable in every way for adults.
In 2018, with his vision clear in front of him, Newcomb began taking official steps toward a complete renovation of the restaurant; a transformation that touched every nook, cranny and even the name. It was a three-year process, including an eight-month period when the restaurant had to be closed. When it was time to open the doors to his re-imagined restaurant, Newcomb knew exactly what he would name it: Lydia’s Italian Kitchen. It was his eldest daughter’s name (and only daughter at the time), as well as a nod to the kind of family-loving place he hoped Lydia’s would become.
The familial warmth at Lydia’s is evident in a multitude of ways: from the original photography and art on the walls, the menu and service and inviting atmosphere throughout. One of Newcomb’s strengths is hiring managers who bring kitchen staff and servers together for sampling menu items. This was especially critical as Newcomb committed to creating recipes and developing a menu that—from pizza dough to pasta sauces—was entirely Lydia’s by design. The collaborative culture continues in Lydia’s servers, who are excited when presenting options to diners. Once they become part of the food making process, they speak of that food from a position of knowledge, and, more importantly, love.
This atmosphere of love is what I find most attractive about dining at Lydia’s. The moment I walk through its giant, wrought-iron doors, I know I’ve entered a place where I’ll be indulged and fussed over the way my grandmother used to do. The Italian theme lends itself naturally to familial warmth and fellowship through feasting. Lydia’s takes this theme and continually pulls it through with excellence.
Lydia’s wine selection is a perfect example. One of Newcomb’s early decisions was to feature only Italian wines. He was committed to offering customers a unique wine experience and way to make inroads into one of the world’s most difficult-to-learn vinicultures. Because Lydia’s showcases exclusively Italian wines, it houses wines made from lesser-known varietals, and in a wide range of price points. Newcomb says when he was learning about Italian wines, he decided to involve his entire staff in the fun. This has translated to a more knowledgeable staff, as well as a more robust dining experience for customers.
Love is most certainly the primary flavor in Lydia’s food. Their homemade sauces are made with care and generosity. My favorite is their signature pink rosa sauce, a combination of their Alfredo and tomato-based sauce. They feature rosa sauce with their Mama Lam’s tortellini as well as their ziti alla rosa. Coming in as a close second, however, is their creamy marinara. Its addition to the penne alla vodka makes this simple, traditional pasta dish a robust delight.
My family counts on Lydia’s for our Friday night pizza tradition. Their wood-fired, brick-oven-baked pizza makes them an easy choice. Our favorites from their specialty pizza menu include the Meatlover’s Dream and Buffalo Chicken Pizza. We appreciate the abundance of toppings and the fresh baked chewiness of their homemade pizza crust.
What we really love, however, is their mozzarella. It’s the thing that makes Lydia’s pizza most delicious. They use buffalo-milk mozzarella, the true mozzarella of Italy. This makes those times when my kids only want pepperoni and cheese—or, just plain cheese—a treat even for me.
Our Friday night Lydia’s pizza order always includes one of Lydia’s calzones. Our current favorite is the Calzone del Capo, filled with Italian sausage, onions, jalapeños and a creamy mix of ricotta and mozzarella. We slice it into strips and serve it alongside Lydia’s cheese bread and Italian Antipasto salad with their homemade Italian dressing. It’s Lydia’s love come home to our family’s table. It’s the exact kind of love our family needs.
Lydia’s Kitchen
1713 Riverview Dr.
Salem, VA 24153
Phone: 540-387-2885
Website: lydiasitaliankitchen.com
Hours:
Monday – Thursday: 11 AM – 9 PM
Friday: 11 AM – 10 PM
Saturday: 12 noon – 10 PM
Sunday: 12 noon – 8 PM
The story above is from our May/June 2021 issue. For more stories, subscribe today or view our FREE digital edition. Thank you for supporting local journalism!